Amateur Sled Dog Races - by Lonnie Olson
The difference between amateur and professional sled dog races is that the pros are racing for prize money anywhere from thousands of dollars (in the long distance races) to hundreds of dollars or less (in the shorter, "sprint" races or mid-distance races). The amateurs are racing for sport, and only stand to win a small prize, like a trophy, commemorative sweatshirt, plaque or other token of your achievement. There are no amateur long-distance races. It would be a waste of time and money. To prepare for a race like the Iditarod, for example, requires so much time, effort and money, that even if you win thousands of dollars in prize money, you might not break even. So, the only amateur races are usually the shorter, sprint races. Some of the short or mid-distances races offer both professional classes and sportsmen classes. The rules are the same for both, and the four dog class, for example, would probably be the same trail for both, but the pro class has a money purse for placements of 1 st through 1Oth (usually), and the sport class usually has a prize for 1 st through 3rd.
The sprint races consist of a very short run. It is usually about three or more miles for the 3dog class, five or more miles for the 5-dog class, and seven or more miles for the 7-dog class. The race planners try to get the mileage to be the same as the number of dogs in the class, but there will be an occasional longer trail. The mileage is not usually more than twice the same number of dogs that you have. Depending on the hosting organization in your area, the numbers of dogs in each class could be different. There might be four, six, and eight dog classes. They may also offer 1 0-dog and unlimited classes.
There are rules which govern all of these races. There is a minimum number of dogs which can be raced in each class. For instance, you could run in the 7-dog class with as few as five dogs. You must have a basket in your sled with a dog bag large enough to hold your biggest dog. You may or may not be allowed to carry a passenger in your sled (remember, many amateurs are not out to win the race--they are only out to have fun). You must have a snow hook and a brake. You are not allowed to use a whip, or have any line attaching the sled to any part of yourself., In addition, there are quite a few rules of "trail etiquette" with which you will need to become familiar before you enter a race.
There is a pre-race drawing to determine your starting position. If you are competitive, you hope for a spot close to the top. The teams are sent out from the starting chute in this order, one minute apart. You may have to pass several teams, if you have slower ones ahead of you. Passing teams slows your time, so you want to pass as few as possible. The races are run in two heats: one on Saturday and one on Sunday. The second day, you are seeded by your finishing time. Because you are seeded by time, there is much less passing the second day, and times are usually much faster for the second heat. The fastest total time determines the finishing placements.
I belong to a small group here in
They would all loan you a sled, loan you a dog, feed you, and give you the shirt off their back. They would stop their team and lose the race to help another individual who has a loose dog or has lost their team. Everyone in sledding has been in the position of needing help from someone. This is not a solo sport. So we are all ready to return the favor at any moment. You don't even have to ask, the people are so willing to lend a hand, they will just come up and offer help. Usually people have friends in several other classes, which they can help when their own team is not running in that class. Those people help you, in return, when your class is running, and theirs is not.
This "family" atmosphere was of tremendous help to my partner, Ed, and I when we were both running our dogs in the same class this past year. We couldn't always help each other, and it was nice to have our extended "family" to call on. It was especially helpful on the second day of the race, when you are seeded by your finishing time from the first race. It was not unusual for Ed and I to both make it to the top 5, because our teams are both pretty equal in speed. As a matter of fact, at one race we were seeded 2nd and 4th for the second day, but both came across the finish line (in second place) with the exact same time: 19 minutes, 1 1 seconds. Being seeded this close together means that we can't help each other get geared up for the race. We depend on and appreciate the help of others.
How I got started in the sport...
I became interested in sled dog racing many years ago. I grew up in the era of Sgt. Preston and Yukon King. When I was a teenager I wanted to have a Malamute when I got a place of my own and could have whatever dog I chose. However, people change, and my tastes changed. I found myself with a wonderful Doberman as my first "dog-child" when I got married, but I didn't give up the idea of training a dog to pull a sled.
I knocked together a home-made tied sled from a pair of skis and some wood. I didn't know much about sleds, except that they needed to be tied together for flexibility, not bolted together like a piece of furniture. I taught "Sundance" to pull my sled, and it worked fine until husband #1 backed over it with his car.
Years later, husband #2 was not so bossy, and he "let" me have several dogs. I had a Golden Retriever, a Welsh Corgi and a Border Collie. My friends and I wanted to get involved in sledding, so we got together to train. Pat Morgan was my inspiration, with her non-typical, all Belgian Tervuren team. She is the one who helped us get started. We used her wheeled rig, and pooled our dogs together to make teams. I spend the summer of 1991 building my very own dog sled. I took measurements from a sled my friend bought (used) for $350.00 and made a duplicate sled for myself at a cost of about $80.00 ($60. for wood and hardware and $20. for nylon runners). Of course, I had a lot of hours into the building of that sled, but it was a labor of love. I was so proud when it was finished. I had very little knowledge of wood bending when I built it. After racing with it for five years, I have purchased a faster model, as I have become more competitive.
My first 3-mile run was with the Golden, Border Collie and Corgi pulling me. All three of the dogs really love sledding (still), but I needed to get some more serious sled dogs. I still remember the look on the other mushers' faces when I was out practicing with my team at the local fairground one winter. I had my two wheel dogs hooked up and went back to the car to get my lead dog. To their surprise I came out toting a feisty Welsh Corgi, wearing her little, purple custom-made harness. She was screaming "Let me go, let me go!" just like all of the Huskies and Alaskans scream when they know the sled is getting ready to leave.
I still didn't care for the northern breeds of dogs. They just weren't my style. I was really hooked on the herding breeds. Their intelligence, problem-solving ability, speed, agility and endurance made them perfect candidates for all of the activities I wanted to pursue- flyball, agility, herding, Frisbee, sledding and obedience. By 1993 I had three Border Collies. My friends had developed serious teams of their own with Huskies and Alaskans, so there was no need to pool our dogs together. I had to screw up the courage to go ahead and enter a race by myself.
I was afraid I couldn't do it. I mean I was really scared. I had been doing "trail help" for the past few years at races, and I had seen people come flying around those corners, losing their sleds, crashing, or any number of other scary things. I was worried that my dogs would cause a tangle if someone passed me, and worried that they would not know how to pass someone else. I was worried that, because I only have one leg, I would not be able to pedal enough to help my dogs along, or get them out of a jam in deep snow. I learned an important lesson the following year, when I finally got brave enough to enter some races and drive my own sled--I worry too much!
I can't tell you the amount of satisfaction I felt when I finished my first race. I was very proud, because I had trained my own dogs, built my own sled, and finished the race without incident, with an artificial leg, and no "Y" chromosome (actually, there are quite a few other female sled drivers)! My dogs had passed several other teams with no problems, and ignored other dogs which tried to cross over and fight or fraternize with them. And, most importantly, I learned that it wasn't all that difficult. I could do it!
My reason for writing my personal sledding "history" is to encourage other amateurs to take up sled dog racing. If a person is interested in this sport they should not let minor things like not owning northern breeds, not owning a sled, not having a mentor, being handicapped, or having irrational fear stop them from becoming involved. If I can do this, anyone can!
How to get started on your own...
If you are getting started in mushing on your own, it would certainly help to have a good book on the subject. There are a lot more of them out there than when I first started. There is some different terminology you will need to get used to. For instance, while we call it mushing, nobody actually says, "mush" to their dogs. Most mushers just say, "alright" or "lets go." My dogs are already familiar with flyball racing, so all I have to do to stir them into a frenzy is say, "On your mark, get set..." or "Ready?" If you have at least read a book on sled racing, you won't have to feel like an idiot when you are talking with other mushers, because these sport-specific terms will definitely pop up in the conversation.
The Dogs
What types of dogs do you have? The best sprint race sled dogs are in the 40 to 45 pound range. They need to have long enough legs to run the races and keep up with the other dogs. Short-nosed breeds would not be a good choice for sledding. Their shortened nasal passages are not able to warm or cool the air as much as with other breeds. This could lead to a heat or cold stress injury. It is not worth the risk. However, if you are determined to get involved with winter sports and you have a short-nosed breed, try skijoring. You usually only have to go a mile or two.
Just about any dog can do sledding--even the short-coated breeds. In my area there is a professional team in the 6-dog class made up of all German Shorthaired Pointers. I have seen Border Collie teams,
Weight of at least 30 pounds
No hair between the pads of the feet
Not dog-aggressive
Friendly toward strangers
Not a chewer
Fully grown (bones fully formed)
High energy
Physically sound
The predominant breed of choice at sled races is the Alaskan Husky. This is not a recognized breed. It could be a dog from the mating of two Alaskan Huskies, or a Husky and a hound, or any other breed which would add energy, endurance, and speed to the characteristics of the Siberian Husky. Alaskans are bandy-looking, yet muscular. They live to run and run and run... We got an Alaskan as a puppy last year. She looks like the lead dog from the movie, "Iron Will." This year was her first racing season. The first time we put a harness on her she started screaming (for joy). She said, "Oh, boy, I wanna do this!" She didn't even know what she was going to do yet. We hooked her up to the sled and she kept her tug line tight. She was straining to go (forward, which is always a plus!), and screaming, "Oh, Hurry--I can't wait!" When we took off, she went into a dead run and never looked back. She acted like she had been doing this all of her life, and she had never even had a harness on before (we didn't do any of the preliminary training I am going to talk about in this article). All dogs do not take to sledding this easily--not even all Alaskan Huskies.
The Harness
Try to obtain well-fitting harnesses for your dogs. I prefer to spend the extra money and have them custom made, but there are fewer and fewer places which will do this now. The standard harnesses come in sizes from XXS to XXL, but they are built for the conformation and body type of your basic racing Husky or Alaskan. If your dog has a body which does not resemble a Husky, you may or may not get an adequate fit by ordering standard harnesses. By the way, harnesses cost from $12. to $16. (in 1996). If you are paying more than that (even for a custom one), you are paying too much. There are places out there that get $35. for harnesses--the same ones you can find elsewhere for $16. Be careful!
The harness should fit so that the "v" at the neck is at the dog's breastbone. You should be able to feel the bone when you poke your finger or thumb into the "v." The straps coming up from the chest area should be at the last (floating) ribs. If the straps are up on the ribcage, they will hinder the dog's breathing. The straps of the back of the harness should not be baggy when you have the dog lean into the harness, pulling on the tug line. The end of the harness, where you will attach the tug lines, should come to just about where the tail is set on the dog.
Slide the harness over the dog's head and put his front legs through the part where the legs belong. Tell your dog how flashy he looks in his new harness. He will enjoy the attention. Some dogs don't like to wear "clothes." They look and act as if they feel like a goon. Get the dog used to wearing the harness, and then begin taking walks with the leash snapped on to the back of the harness. This will be easy if your dog already does tracking.
The Collar
Sledding collars are made so that they will go over the dog's head, but not come off while he is pulling on the line. They will tighten enough to prevent a dog from getting loose, but can not choke the dog. These collars are sometimes called semi-chokes. They are made of flat nylon webbing, and look like a nylon choke collar, except they are permanently in the "p" shape, with the second ring sewn between two pieces of webbing with a couple of inches of play. Dogs can wear flat buckle collars, but they have to be tight enough not to slip over the dogs' heads. The collar I use is the Premier collar, which is a flat webbed nylon martingale that serves the same function. You can slide it over the dog's head, but if he pulls on the leash and tries to squirm out of it can can't do it, and he also can't choke himself, because it won't tighten beyond a certain point. These collars are adjustable, so that you can make sure they are sized correctly for each of your dogs. The purpose of wearing a sledding collar is safety. You wouldn't want a dog slipping out of his collar and getting run over by the sled or tangling with something. You also do not want a choke collar which will keep tightening until the dog passes out or dies. If you have ever gotten into a really bad tangle, where dogs have twisted around and around, you could see where a choke collar would be a real hazard.
The Gang Line
Ganglines are usually made from nylon rope. You can buy different strengths (thicknesses) if you are planning to construct your own. You may have to start out by purchasing your own lines if you are unfamiliar with the dimensions or the construction of ganglines. There are special knots, weaves and loops which will not allow your lines to come undone after you have built them. It is better for you to learn the correct way. So, if there is not someone to teach you, buy your ganglines. It is good to start with a four dog setup. If your gangline has places to clip the necklines and tug lines when they are not in use, you can run as few as one dog on this four-dog line. You can always add an extension to turn your four-dog line into a six-dog line. Ganglines also come made from metal cable covered with vinyl. This type of line is useful if you have chewers, as dogs can make short work of a nylon rope. Suddenly, you could be left with a two-dog team and half a gangline, with the other half of the team disappearing down the trail.
Make sure that the either your gangline or sled bridle is equipped with a bungie-cord shock-absorber, so that when they all heave forward to pull, it doesn't feel to them as though they are tied, and going nowhere. Some ganglines even have bungies inside of the actual line and each dog's tug line. This makes for less jolting on the dogs when you hit bumps or when you pedal.
The "Sled"
Next, you will need to get the dog used to feeling weight behind him. My dogs were all obedience trained first, and were not wild maniacs, so I did this on a bicycle in the summertime. Be careful if you have an energetic dog which is more interested in running than respecting your space, as you could have a nasty accident on the bicycle. Another option is to tie your dog out on a chain connected to an old tire. The dog will begin dragging the tire around the yard like it was nothing, and he will learn that it won't hurt him to have something pulling behind him.
Something that has a little more stability than a bicycle is a wheeled rig. Mushers use wheeled rigs in the fall to train for the racing season. The word of caution here is for the dogs. If they are northern breeds, or breeds with heavy coats or short muzzles, they could become easily overheated pulling a heavy wheeled rig in the summertime--even in the evenings. Do not work your dogs for long distances when the weather is warm. You decide for yourself. My mushing friends do not start training until the cooler October evenings, because their dogs become very warm in their thick coats. My dogs, on the other hand, do flyball, agility, herding and Frisbee outside in the summertime, and they are used to working in the heat. Their coats are not so thick, and they don't overheat as easily. Be sure to limit your dog's hard work in the warm weather. Heaven knows they are not going to limit themselves. The dogs enjoy sledding so much, they would run until they dropped!
Some people prefer to use a three-wheeler or quad-runner to train their teams. This way, they can give it some gas and help the dogs on hills, or to prevent them from getting too tired. There are many kinds of rigs available. I have even seen someone use a stripped-down car chassis. Whatever you use for a wheeled training rig, the important features are that you have brakes, and are able to help the dogs, either with an engine of some type or by pedaling. Whether you want a heavy rig or a light one depends on how many dogs are on your team. My wheeled rig has been made "handicap accessible," and it is a little heavy, but that's okay, because it slows down the dogs enough to not have the driver flying all over the place. Wheeled rig rides are a lot bumpier than sled rides.
Of course, if you intend to enter races or ride for pleasure in the wintertime, you will need to get a sled. I have listed some sources for sleds at the end of this article. There are bolted together sleds, which are the cheapest and least flexible kind, the tied together sleds, which are more expensive and allow more flexibility for taking corners and steering, the swivel sleds, which are held together with bolts, but in such a way as to allow the sled the greatest flexibility of all (the bolts can be tightened if less flexibility is desired), and toboggan sleds, which are used for the distance races because there is a lot of room for packing provisions and necessities. If you are just starting out, you might want a cheap sled, at first. Then, after you have more experience, and have seen other people's sleds, you can upgrade to a better model. You may even be able to find a good used sled of one of the better racing varieties for less money than you would pay for your bolted sled. Expect to pay at least $400. for a competition quality sled.
The Training
Once you have got the dogs, harnesses, gangline and some form of rig or sled, you can begin working the dogs. Some dogs take to sledding readily. For others it takes a while. Don't give up if you have a dog which seems to hate sledding. We have two which we almost gave up hope on, a Border Collie and a Cattle Dog. They would snarl, "Get me outta here!" when we hooked them up with the team. They would drag backwards and not contribute to any forward motion. They would bite the gang lines to try to free themselves. They would twist around and make "spaghetti" out of the lines. Now they are both happily running on teams. The Border Collie is my absolutely most frenzied puller. If she sees someone touch a sled or pick up a harness, she starts wailing, "Oh, God, please take me, take me!" She absolutely can't stand to see the other dogs get hooked up first, but we have to save her for last, because she gets so crazy.
There are several methods for getting your dog to enjoy sledding, if he doesn't take to it like a duck to water. Here are some various methods and suggestions. NOTE: Any mention of "roads" in this article refers to the untrafficked two-tracks found at park and recreation centers, fairgrounds, state land, or other "off-road" dirt roads. Do not work your dogs on asphalt under any circumstances, as it will pull (wear) the pads off their feet. Do not work your dogs on main roads, as you do not have a license to use the roads, and cars have the right-of-way. I was once working my team on a seldom-used back-road near my house after a fresh, deep snowfall. The road graders don't usually make it out there until about the time the snow would have melted on its own. The dogs were using the path which the few cars which had gone down the road that day had made with their tires. A car came up on us, and of course wanted to stay in the tracks, too, instead of driving in the 1 0" deep snow. This guy was right next to us, inches away. I didn't want to stop the dogs, as sometimes they will swing out into the trail (right in front of the car) when they stop. So I just kept hanging on as he passed us, praying that one of my dogs legs didn't get too close to his tires, and that they would keep going straight. I thought the guy in the car was a real idiot--then again, I was the one out on the road with an unlicensed vehicle, where traffic belongs. You must always use caution when exercising your dogs. Most trails which are off-road and convenient for use as sledding trails are also prime areas for snowmobilers. They are not always looking for a dog sled team to come up over a hill or around a bend, either.
The "let him chase Mommy" approach:
One problem with training the average housedog to pull a sled, is that they have no instinct for running away from the owners, and would much rather run to the owners. If you start out training alone, you might hook up your dogs to find them all turn around and come to you, or jump in the sled. If you have at least two other friends to help you, you can use this method. Get one friend to drive a hatchback car, pickup truck, or snowmobile and another friend to drive the rig or sled. A third friend comes in handy to keep the dogs facing forward until you're ready to take off. You (Mom or Dad to the dog) sit in the back of the vehicle to call and praise the dogs. Have the vehicle driver start off as you call the dogs. He should be prepared to be going 25 miles per hour (quickly). As the dogs run to catch up with Mommy (or Daddy), they enjoy running and pulling the sled. Make sure the vehicle driver stays ahead of the dogs. Have the sled driver talk to and praise the dogs, too, so they get used to having someone behind them without wanting to turn around and go to the driver. After a few tries at this, have the vehicle take off down the road with Mommy and drive out of sight before letting the dogs go. They think they're chasing Mom, but they're not ever going to catch her! Finally you switch to driving the sled yourself. By then, the dogs have learned to like pulling the sled for the sheer fun of it, and it will usually not matter that Mommy is now in the sled behind them. A similar version of this involves having Mommy or Daddy run a short ways down the road or trail, calling the dogs and running. Sometimes the dogs will get caught up in the fun and keep running, and sometimes they will screech to a halt when they get to the owner. The vehicle works much better.
The "hook him up with the team and see if he runs" approach.
(This approach assumes you already have two or more experienced dogs, and you are breaking in a new one.)
For a three or four-dog set-up, you have two options, put him out front with your leader, or put him in wheel position either alone, or with another dog. Your decision will become more wise over time. Would this dog work best alone, or with the security of a companion? Is this dog going to cause trouble? If so, if you put him by a leader, or a more serious dog, that dog will often "reprimand" the new dog if he is goofing off, pulling backwards, biting the neckline or causing problems. The dogs have one mission in life when they are hooked up to the sled, and they are not wanting to put up with any foolishness from new dogs. Sometimes, a "reprimand" (usually a snarl and some bites) from the lead dog will go farther than yelling from the driver. If you don't have leaders who will keep the other dogs doing their jobs, and you think the new dog may cause trouble (biting the lines, being a nincompoop), you could try putting him alone in the wheel position with two dogs in lead for him to "chase" (or to be pulled along by). Most dogs would rather just join the group and pull, rather than being dragged.
Assigning positions
Some dogs are right for some positions, and some are not. We had a Border Collie which did not like to be in the wheel position, because he felt that the neck line was pulling him, or something. When we put him out front, with his neck tied to nothing but the other dog, he ran fine. Later, after he learned to love it, he could switch back to any position.
I have another Border Collie, Koda, who is in his second season of racing who had always run double lead with my leader. My leader, Karli, is not real secure. She will run single lead, but prefers to have another dog up there with her. This year, when we were trying to figure out who to put in lead for our second team, since we only had one trained leader, my partner, Ed, suggested Koda. I said, "No way--he doesn't know what he's doing!" Ed put him out front with a brand new dog, and he ran lead just fine. Not long afterwards, he tried him in single lead, and, by golly, he acted just like he had been doing it all his life. He keeps himself and the team straight on the trail when we are passing teams (or being passed). He never lets his tug line go slack. He pulls me up hills, when I can't always get off and push. This dog really has heart. And he had been learning his Gee/Haw commands while he was in double lead with Karli.
I have another male Border Collie, Wile E., who is an excellent wheel dog. He puts his head down and pulls and runs. His tug line is never slack. I got the bright idea to try him out front with Koda, because I thought Koda might be more confident with a "buddy" up front (I still couldn't convince myself that Koda was fine as a single lead dog). What a big mistake! Koda is a little wary of scary situations. Wile E. is more than a little wary of scary situations. At this race, when they saw the trail help hunkering down holding their arms out, they panicked, broke stride and barked. The same thing happened when they saw the men crouching in trees with cameras. But when another team passed us, Wile E. was completely taken by surprise (and he's the only one on the team with bilateral hearing!). He stopped in his tracks, and before I could get the brake on, I had a major tangle. We were doing really well that day. The guy who passed us finished 7th in a huge class. I'm sure we would have been in the prizes (top ten) if not for that bad decision. Wile E. used to run double lead all the time with Karli, and he never spooked. The problem was that each of the dogs was just a little insecure, but together, they fed each other's fears and the scariness factor increased exponentially. Wile E. never spooks in the wheel position. He just keeps his head down and follows the butt in front of him. And that is where he belongs.
My youngest Border Collie, Rikka, has been doing fabulous in wheel position. I thought I would try her in lead, but all she did was keep looking over her shoulder, like, "Hey, shouldn't there be someone ahead of me to follow?" Fortunately, I tried this in a practice run, and did not make the mistake of switching her position at a race like in the previous example. Some dogs are meant to lead, and some dogs are meant to follow.
If you don't have a dog which will lead, you may be able to buy an older, experienced leader from a kennel which is trying to trim down. A spectator asked me one time, "What do they do with the dogs when they get old?" I'm sure she expected some grizzly story about how they put them to sleep, like at the Greyhound tracks. No, someone is always starting out who would give their eye teeth for an experienced leader to help train their own dogs. There is always a home for an old leader with some beginner team.
If you do buy a trained dog from another musher, be careful to make sure of what you are buying. I once went to inspect some dogs which were offered for sale, as the musher was getting out of the sport. There were some $400. 'leaders" and some less expensive "team dogs." I said, "Ok, so he's a leader, that means he knows his 'Gee/Haw' commands, right?" The guy said, "Heck, no! He just leads." The definition of a leader is just a dog which will run out in front. Not just any dog will run lead. It is a lot of responsibility. If you're looking for a dog which knows Gee and Haw, then you had better mention that before you hand over any money.
If you are in a position to have to train your own leader, start by taking him out on the trails and say "Gee" when the trail turns right and "Haw" when the trail turns left. Say "On By" or, "Straight Ahead" when you want them to ignore a side road, another team, or a distraction of some type. My dogs know that "Good _____" means that they were correct, so as they are making the turn I say, "Good Gee." If you do this often enough, the dogs will start paying attention. Make sure YOU have the words right, and never ask them to turn where you don't think they will go. Take them on a familiar trail and ask them to take the turn you know they will take. Later, if you ever give a command and they try to go a different way, you must stop them and make them go the way you directed. Don't just say, "Oh well, I guess we can go this way, then." You're the boss--BE the boss.
It has taken me a few years, but I finally have the "chemistry" worked out for my 3-dog team. They had several placements and wound up this past racing season with a first place win. I was very proud of them, and of myself for putting together a winning team.
When I first started sledding with my all Border Collie team, I would get funny looks, and people would say, "What kind of dogs are those?" After a very successful season with my "funny looking" dogs, the people started coming over to say, "What kind of dogs are those?" I feel pretty good about my "non-typical" sled dogs. They're beating the Siberian Huskies and Alaskans. My dogs don't live in a dog yard with 100 other dogs. They live in the house with me. They sleep on the bed. I talk baby-talk to them. They wear designer collars. I bathe, or comb and clip them before every race. They weren't born to pull a sled--they just love to pull the sled. I would encourage anyone who has two or more dogs large enough to pull a sled to try this fun sport. Because the dogs and I have fun even when we don't beat the Alaskans.
A 1998 update on this article:
Sunday, March 15, 1998 - I'm sitting here updating my Web Pages, since I have a broken leg and can't go out and enjoy the beautiful snow, anyway. I broke my leg in one of the few sled races which was not cancelled due to lack of snow this year. I was doing a "James Bond" turn, and snapped my stump in two (right inside of my artificial leg). No, I didn't fall, hit a tree, or fly off the sled. It just broke while I was standing on it (well, I was leaning into that turn pretty heavily.) My wonderful team of "house pets" made me proud. After the trail help put in the snow hook and dragged me off to the opposite side of the trail, the "collies" kept the lines tight, kept facing forward, didn't try to cross out into the trail, and didn't mess up any of the nine teams which passed before someone came to drive my dogs in (while I waited for an ambulance.) The potential for a nine-team pile-up was tremendous, but there were no mishaps.
And, two of the young dogs I wrote about in this article have since grown up and "accidentally" had puppies, and I am now raising a Alaskan Husky/Border Collie Mix. The other three puppies all went to other mushing homes. I guess the idea of a Border Collie cross is catching on with more mushers.
